The hardest part is

Paddling out

Each wave seems bigger than the one before

Eleven foot swells

More like climbing mountains

Only the view from the top

Isn’t much to see

It’s when I get past these

Gigantic raging beast

Into the peaceful slick of the sea

I notice there is

Nothing but

Peaceful tranquility ahead of me

Total chaos behind

Under this burning sun

I realize

There is no place I’d rather be